Our last Days in Barra

It is Good Friday. We took the water taxi over to Barra to buy our 8 dozen eggs. Who buys eight dozen eggs at a time? But if you do the math - eggs twice a week, two eggs per person, three people - that is a dozen a week. And then there is baking and pancakes and egg salad sandwiches and potato salad.

The process from church was beginning just as we got to town. Most Mexicans are Catholic so this time of year is very special for them. They re-enacted the Crucifixion. Some people were dressed as Romans riding horses as they led the process of Jesus being taken from the jail, his condemnation to death and the crucifixion. It was very solemn and taken very seriously. The town was very crowded. Sorry - no pictures as the ones from The phone were out of focus.

We brought the last load of laundry into Maguel. Now I have to do it by hand! But this tells you just how honest the people are. Armon picked up the last load of laundry and the cost was 160 pesos. When he handed the money to Maguel he was told it was only 60 pesos. When they were checking the pockets they found a 100 peso note in David's shorts! Even I would have pocketed it - which I used to do any time I found loose change in his jeans. (I did own up to it but always considered it my fee for doing his laundry')

Back home to find a place for the eggs - something accessible so they can be turned every three days to keep them fresh!

On Saturday I cleaned the sail cover, dried it and stowed it away as we will not need it for the next month. Then I cleaned the awning and the windows on the Bimini. Arturo came and cleaned the bottom of the boat. We do not want any barnacles to slow us down this time! Then we spent some time on the computer, updating contact lists and sending out emails.

Sunday Armon and I drove over to Melaque to get the bulk of our fresh fruit and vegetables. We decided that we would rather support the local businesses as much as possible rather than Walmart and the other big box stores. In a lot of ways the food is fresher and cheaper anyway. Then back to the boat to wash everything in a 10% bleach solution, air dry and stow. It was great having Armon to help. He got the job of wrapping all the citrus, apples and tomatoes in aluminum foil. So our baskets are full and everything has a home.

Armon left to finish up a few things around his house and I headed to the pool. David had already cleaned half of the deck and cabin house so we were ahead of schedule. I swam a kilometer and then sent some more emails.

In case you did not make the list - here is another way to track our crossing. Go to www.mmsn.org .  Click on ShipTrak. Enter in our call sign in the box in the left upper corner. VE0DM - remember the 0 is the number zero. Hit View.

A map of the world will appear. Move the mouse or slide your finger across the screen until you come to the west coast of Mexico and the South Pacific. You should see a sailboat on the cost of Mexico. That is Barra and that is where we are. As we get closer to French Polynesia you can play with the screen to get more detail.

Every time we call the marine mobile radio they will post our location on the map and you will be able to track our progress. How cool is that!!

And if you want to check out the weather go onto www.windyty.org

You will get a map of the world. Adjust your screen to the area you are interested in and you will see the direction and strength of the wind.

After a relaxing couple of hours at the pool and no sign of David, I returned to the boat. Another speed bump! He tried running the motor again and it started to cut out. So he took the lift pump apart and found that one of the screws was stripped and the gasket was worn!

So we decided to go to the hotel for dinner and then he would tackle this issue.

As our luck goes - the pump needed a new gasket - which we had! But the banjo bolt housing was stripped. Our now good friend, the mechanic.( Johnco) brought it to the mechanist - the same guy who manufactured our special tool for the shaft. He was able to rebore and rethread the casing. But of course this made for another delay! So while we waited David and Armon changed out the hose in the head.

All in the attitude. Better that these things happen in port where you can do something about it. And our friends on Elizabeth G showed up (we kept missing them) and we were able to share a lovely dinner in town. We got word that the counsel approved our application and we are able to rent the condo to David's niece and had time to update the insurance for that.

We got the pump on Tuesday and David installed it. The motor ran well and it looked like we were finally ready to go. While this was going on I finished cleaning the rest of the boat. 

Next day we drove into Manzanillo to clear Customs and Immigration. Immigration was almost seamless. When you enter Mexico any other way EXCEPT by air - you receive a visitor's Visa - which you pay 390   Pesos for. That is about $30. You get your Visa along with a receipt. We came in the last time by air - no problem. Armon drove into Mexico. He had his Visa which they tell you to carry with you at all times with your Passport but he did not have the receipt. . They do not say anything about the receipt. Well when you check out they want both. But you do not get your Visa stamped unless you pay. Does not matter! They want that receipt! So Armon had to pay again.

Then we were sent to Customs. Now Manzanillo is a huge port and a big city. Customs is on the other side of the harbour ( think of Vancouver).  So back in the car  we went. We went to the Customs office, stood in line to get a ticket, told them what we wanted to do and waited. 20 minutes later our number was called only to be told that we were in the wrong Customs building. We needed to go across the highway to the other one. Now we are beginning to feel like we are in a Seinfeld sitcom.

And the fun does not stop there. We get a new girl who wanted us to bring our boat into the parking lot so they could inspect it! There was a customer who spoke English and she tried to help us with the translation. It is a yacht" we cannot drive it into the parking lot! And it is in Barra - 100 km away. She walks away frustrated as she does not know what is required.

This lovely customer then goes over to another agent and tries to explain what we are trying to do. He tells us that we need to go to the Port Captain and get some paper signed and stamped. But we told him the Port Captain in Barra told us that we needed to go to Customs first. No - go to the Port Captain in Manzanillo. He will give us the paper, we bring it back to Customs and then we go to the Port Captain in Barra. Are you following all of this?

So back in the car and drive back to where we were in the beginning. The Port Captain tells us that he has nothing for us and we should just go to the Port Captain in Barra. We give up!

So we got the rest of our provisions and headed back to Barra. But the Port Captain goes home at 1400 hours so we are into Thursday.

David and Armon head off to the Port Captain. They return with papers in hand and the rest of the frozen food from Armon's. We top up the water tank, again, and I pay the marina, again!

And this last Blog entry for a while was going to be a short one! Sorry for the babble and no pictures. Just this last one which is the most important one!

Betty-Ann, Captain Dave and our Amigo, Armon. On board and ready to cast off.

Finally.

 

Provisioning for a Month Offshore

Provisioning for Offshore

3 people 4 Weeks (with extras to get us through 6) as you must always plan for the unexpected.

It is getting closer to the date when we will embark on the next leg of our adventure, leaving Barra de Navidad and heading to the Marquesas in French Polynesia. To date I have provisioned the boat for a maximum of two weeks. Since we left Canada we have always been within 1-2 days of any port where we could top up. A minimum of one month at sea with no land in sight does not provide us with the same opportunities. 

We finally have a departure date ( mas y minus) ( plus or minus) and so it is time to get serious. I have spent a lot of time reading about provisioning, trying out recipes, experimenting with ways to keep things fresh for longer and finding out what works and doesn't work.

I have learnt a few things.

Provisioning for a long period of time does not mean buying everything    that comes in a can. With a bit of creativity you can eat as well if not better than you would on land. Want to avoid junk food for a month? Don't bring any on board! Remember - if you never ate it on land chances are you will not eat it on the boat!

Every boat is different. You will have to judge for yourself the needs and abilities of your crew. First of all I love to cook. I have been having fun changing up recipes to accommodate local produce. Second, I am cooking for two men who love it that I want to cook and who are not picky eaters - just no Lima beans or parsnips. No worries here as I hate both! Third, we have a fairly large fridge/freezer space that will easily accommodate food for the four weeks.

So start with a good pantry. We have six shelves in the galley where I keep my condiments and supplies for at least two weeks. They are organized as to culinary ethnicity.

Side Bar: I met a sailor who had a similar story to ours. They sold their house, moved onto the boat and sailed south. When she heard that I was making Indian Butter Chicken for dinner she asked me where I got the ingredients. From home, of course. She said when they moved onto the boat she got rid of all her specialty foods. Why? I asked. She did not even think that she would still use them. Silly girl. We love Mexico and one shelf is dedicated to Mexican cuisine but do you really want to eat tacos every day?

So the following is a list of some of the supplies. Some we had to bring from Canada but I was pleasantly surprised at how much I could find in Mexico. But the chances of finding them in French Polynesia decreases so stock up. Try out some ready made products - you may find some that will surprise you - not worth making from scratch.

Italian

Dried salamis - great snack and does not have to be refrigerated

Pastas

Ready made Sauces (tomato, pesto, Alfredo)

Diced tomatoes ( also used in other ethnic cooking so bring lots)

Tomato purée

Capers

Sun dried tomatoes

Artichoke hearts

Pickled asparagus

Anchovies

Basil, oregano,Rosemary,fennel seeds

Mexican

Hernandez Salsa

Hernandez Guacamole

Hot Sauce

Jarred roasted red peppers (also Used in Italian dishes)

Chipotle Peppers

Olives (on Spanish olives in Mexico)

Black Refried Beans

Cumin

Beans - canned, raw, packaged

Indian

Butter Chicken Sauce (jarred,package)

Mogul Curry Spice Mix

Tobago Habanero Mix

Monsoon Buali

Punjabi Garam Marsala Mix - the above mixes come from Salt Spring    

    Island and are worth the trip to find them!)

Chutney

Tahini

Chick Peas

Chinese/ Thai

Oyster Sauce                         Soya Sauce

Sambas Chili Paste.              Corn starch

Mango Salsa                          Minced garlic

Minced lemongrass.             Tomyum paste

Hot & sour soup mix.            Szechuan pepper corns

Pickled ginger.                       Wasabi paste

Pano bread crumbs               Hoisin sauce

Sweet Chili sauce.                 Sesame oil

Red/green/yellow curry paste

Pad Thai package.                Peanut sauce

Chinese Five Spice

Miscellaneous

Vinegars - apple, red wine, white.    Canola oil

Olive oil.                                                Maple Syrup

Peanut Butter ( lots).                           Ketchup

Mustards ( variety).                             Mayonnaise

Low sodium chicken broth.                Horse radish

BBQ sauce.                                           Soup mixes to use as a base

Various spices

Dried goods - do not over do it because a lot of these products are available

Various pastas              Rice - Uncle Ben's Quick,  jasmine, 

Couscous.                     Quinoa

Nuts - raw, salted,unsalted

Dried fruit

Rolled oats - make granola ahead of time

All purpose flour

Sugar - brown and white

Mixes for muffins, cookies, scones,pancakes, loaves

Even though I prefer to make things from scratch it may not be practical - either the weather will not allow it or I am simply too tired. Trader Joe's - an American grocery store has some excellent products along with the trendier deli's in Canada. Summer markets or Christmas fairs are also a good place to look. 

I met a fellow Canadian a couple of weeks ago and she told me about Ziplock bread. I cannot wait to try it. Imagine being in the middle of the Pacific Ocean with the smell of home made bread coming out of the galley! Just bread or turn it into cinnamon buns or better yet, pizza!

Dairy Products

Cheese, cheese and more cheese. (Leave in original vacuum package until ready to use). Wrap in parchment paper and out in plastic tote once opened. And buy smaller packages - none of those big loaves from Cosco. You will end up cutting off more mould than what you eat!

Sour cream

Yoghurt

Butter

Hummus

Now comes the fresh fruit and vegetables. I am not going to list them as that would take another page and be kind of boring. Suffice it to say that you can get almost any fruit and vegetable that you get in Canada. The difference is that they are grown here, are fresher and a lot cheaper. The interesting part is the things you do with them to make them last longer.

Number one is try not to mix up types. So store peppers together in a sealed plastic container. I have a plastic milk crate which I will layer with potatoes, onions and carrots with newspaper in between. 

Citrus fruit will be wrapped in tinfoil. The bags of romaine lettuce ( whole) will last a couple of weeks in a plastic container. It helps if you put a piece of paper towel in each container to soak up any excess condensation.

Cabbage and squash can hang in one of the baskets. Apples and pears also get wrapped in tinfoil. Avoid plastic wrap - it causes things to sweat! Not good in an already high humidity environment. 

And the meat! How much to buy? First you want to look at your

Freezer space. At first I was not going to do a menu plan for the four weeks. In the end I did and I would recommend it. It makes guesstimating how much food to buy a lot easier. I found that I bought a lot less than I otherwise would have. Order from the local butcher and see if he can give it to you already frozen. When I packaged it for the freezer I got 4 large ziplock bags - one for each week. So week four is on the bottom and will not be opened til that time. This makes it easier to find things - most freezers on boats do not have shelves! Also things at the top of the freezer do not freeze as well - no worry as you will be eating everything in that bag in the first week! I plan one putting a single layer of ice in a ziplock bag between each of the weeks. This will also help to keep things frozen and take some strain off the compressor.

We have been told that beer and wine are very expensive in French Polynesia and have been advised to fill up all the empty spaces n the boat with our favorites.

The picture above shows the wine wrapped in my socks to prevent breakage. 16 bottles fit perfectly in the center part of our drop leaf table!

And for room under a settee for boxed wine and canned beer.

I am not going to include the menu at this time - need something to write about during the crossing! So you will just have to wait for the surprises that I have in mind just like the crew will have to wait. They will eat well!

I did roast a turkey and made one of my Turkey Shepard's pie for week three. I also made a lasagna - half we will eat at port the night before we leave. And of course turkey broth for soup. But other than that I plan to cook as we go. I have a pressure cooker which is very handy. You can make your dinner when seas are calm. Once it has cooked you can put the pot in the sink and leave it there for days. The pot is a sealed unit and does not require refrigeration. Just remember to bring everything to a boil when you do open it up. 

And last but not least - do not forget the " treat" cupboard. Granola bars are great for those days when the seas are rough and you cannot cook. Also cookies, crackers, nuts, pretzels, M&M's, chocolate pieces. I have two crew members who like to snack on the night watch! Make up a lunch ahead of time so they will not wake you up when they go foraging in the galley while you are trying to sleep!

So are you guys hungry yet? 

The way I see it - provisioning is one of the most important things when preparing for a long crossing. You want to keep your crew happy and healthy. A friend of mine did a crossing from New Zealand to Tahiti a couple of years ago. They lost their motor and ran into some terrible weather. For four days they hand steered. The crew were tired and low. Brian made homemade cinnamon buns and the captain thanked him - it was an immediate positive boost for everyone on board! Now let us hope that we do not have the same situation. But I am looking forward to the smiles when I present my Chicken Mirabella or Chocolate brownies to the guys. 

Tazza coffee with fresh blueberry scones anyone?

Today we bought 8 dozen eggs! Contrary to popular belief eggs do not have to be refrigerated if they have never been refrigerated. And that is how you find them in Mexico. 2 dozen will be put in the fridge and the other six go under the settee. You just have to turn them every 3-4 days and they will last up to six weeks.

One of the first blogs upon reaching Tahiti will tell you just how successful I was with the provisioning. I plan on doing one last entry just before we leave - so keep checking!

And thanks for reading and especially for the comments. Nice to know that someone is actually reading this stuff!

 

Adios Mexico

LShould I stay or Should I Go?

I cannot get that song out of my head. The last month seems like a roller coaster with all kinds of issues presenting themselves. The main concern has been the engine but I am happy to say that it has finally been resolved.

So David and Armon have been busy checking off things on the list while I concern myself with the provisioning, bond documentation and general organization of all the things that need to find a place on this 37 foot boat!

I do not think any of us will actually believe it is happening until we leave the dock but we are moving forward as if it is.

David and Armon have installed a secondary bilge pump with float. Armon also made two beautiful shelves for the shower. 

We have only used the shower twice in the last couple of years and storage seemed to be more important. Showers take place on deck! All eyes aft boys!!!

The new water heater and tank has been installed. This proved to be a bigger job then expected as the boat seemed to be built around the old one so David had to completely dismantle it in order to get it out of the lazarette. Thank goodness the new one went in okay.

I revarnished the forward hatch 

and David put new weather stripping. We do not need leaks on our bed in the v-berth when those big waves break over the bow.

Arturo cleaned and waxed and polished the cabin sides and top sides.

The boys are cleaning and taking the air out of the dinghy. Then they will try to squeeze it back into its' original bag. Then it will be strapped down on the cabin top. 

I spent the morning at Armon's house freeze packing and organizing all of the meat and fish into four large zip lock bags. One for each week.

I cooked a turkey last night with all of the trimmings and we had a farewell dinner with some friends. Then I made up a turkey Shepard's pie which we will eat on week two!

Now I am in the lobby trying to finalize all of our papers for our bond application. French Polynesia requires one of the following before they will let you into the country:  A return plane ticket to your home port or the posting of a $1700 US bond per person which is the equivalent of a plane ticket ( returnable when you leave)or registration with an agent. We chose the third option - at a cost of $270 for the three of us. As we do not know when we will. Get there it is hard for Armon to buy a return ticket. The agent greases the wheels for us and allows us tax free gas and discounts for groceries and moorage. It is a little involved but worth the hassle free sign in process. In the mean time it is my job to send her a copy of the boat registration, copy of our health insurance, signed document of the terms and agreement with the agent, signed copy of the boat  and a signed copy of David's responsibility as the Captain of the boat. Thank goodness for the ability to scan and email documents.

Our office in the lobby - printer, MacPro, HP, IPad, beautiful view!

Confidence is in the first row second boat from the right with the blue sail cover.

On Wednesday the boys will do one final check of the alignment which involves Arturo diving to inspect the shaft and propellor. Then we will drive into Manzanillo to the Federal building to clear customs and Immigration. Then a stop at the Port Captains in Barra to get our Zarpe to clear the boat.

Last job is the final provisioning of all fresh fruit and vegetables and eggs and what not.

So if all goes well we will depart on Thursday  morning.

Am I scared? Absolutely not! I have total confidence in my Captain and crew and the boat. Am I excited? You bet! I have butterflies and feel like a kid waiting for Santa to come.

I will post one more blog the day before we leave giving everyone our email address for the Single Side Band radio.

This entry and the next one are not too long as I just have too much to do. I will probably work on some blog entries on the 4 week crossing - what is involved in provisioning and the emotional preparations for such a long journey.

Keeping everyone Posted!!!