Oaxaca state has one of the largest Indian populations, along with Chiapas in Mexico. This includes the Zapotec and the Mixtec Indians.
So many people have told us that we must go there - so what better pace to see the year end.
We took a deluxe bus from La Crucecita at 2315 for less than $30 each. The bus took us along the coast and then inland over the highlands and 4 mountain passes in the Sierra Madres. We decided to do a night run because we were only able to find accommodations for two nights and traveling at night would give us an extra full day in Oaxaca City.
This area is famous for its crafts and corn and Mescal ( made from the agave cactus like tequila but roasted in the ground first to give it a smoky flavor). Today a lot of families make a living selling their crafts of pottery, rugs and wood carvings (alebrijes). The families who weave the rugs have their own sheep, shear and spin the wool, dye the wool with natural dyes (cochineal - bark, indigo plant, plants and insects)
and then weave them in patterns specific to their families. I have to say that all of the " souvenirs" that we have seen since arriving in Mexico that I have bought or really liked have come from this area. But the heritage of the area really comes from growing corn. The ceremonial centre of Monte Alban ( one of the ruins) depicts this.
Oaxaca City, the Capitol of the state is a product of three centuries of colonial society. It has its own style of architecture and displays of the buildings and the green stone is evident everywhere you look. Buildings have low, thick walls to protect them from earthquakes and gives the city a very Europian provincial feel to it.
So we arrived at 0700 after a long but quiet "wavy" drive. We both took a Gravol to help us sleep on the bus. Upon arrival we walked to the town centre to find a place for breakfast and then went to our hotel. Azucenas is a lovely bed & breakfast run by a Canadian from Quebec. It reminded me a lot of Susan's B&B In Belize. The rooms all face into an open court yard. The common area is on the roof where a continental breakfast is served. It is not included in the cost of the room - about $60 a night - but can be purchased for an extra $4. There was always fresh orange juice, cereal, yoghurt, granola and an array of fresh fruits and baked goods. You got quite a view from the roof top. And it was within walking distance to most of the points of interest.
Stuart and Prim had made reservations for dinner so we decided to to get a taxi and visit the ruins at Monte Alban. The place was spectacular. The Great Plaza was constructed in 300-600 BC by flattening the mountaintop.
The site is aligned north to south and overlooks the entire Oaxaca valley. The evacuation of this area has unearthed more than 170 tombs, ceremonial altars, stelae, pyramids and altars. There are books written on the different structures and I will leave it to you to investigate further.
Below are some of the more prominent structures. There would have been more but unfortunately a lot them were washed out. So I guess you will just have to go there and check it out yourself.
Susan should appreciate this picture. And cousin Terry too! We climbed to the top!
One of the stelae's
We spent almost three hours at the site and then returned to the hotel to have a siesta before dinner. The broken night sleep on the bus was starting to get to us.
We were able to walk to the restaurant with Stuart and Prim and they were able to point out some of the attractions that we must spend some time at. We had a fantastic Italian dinner (where I found Santa)
and were in complete awe of the city. The architecture is lovely and the brick streets bustling with families and tourists was very welcoming. If you ever have an opportunity to come to this city, you MUST make the effort. And plan to stay for at least 4 days.
This city was designed to have a system of streets perpendicular to one another around a large central square called the Zocalo. The centre streets are walking streets so no cars are allowed except on the one way cross streets. This makes for a very relaxed but busy city core with lots of tourists, interesting shops, restaurants and numerous cafes. Coffee and chocolate are both huge products grown in Oaxaca state - sorry - no Starbucks here". The neighboring state of Tabasco grows most of the cacao beans. They are ground with almonds and cinnamon and pressed into bars. You dissolve the bars into hot milk and beat until frothy. Wonderful! They also use the chocolate in their mole paste which is one of the specialties of the area.
We spent the next day touring the Convent and walking through the museum. The Dominican order were responsible for building numerous churches and convents with the Convent of Santo Domingo being the most spectacular.
Yes this is David in a Church
The State Regional Museum is housed in the old Santa Domingo monastery. If you go make sure you rent the English video as all of the descriptions are in Spanish. The stairs, the arches, the cupolas - everywhere you look, there are lovely details in stone or in the remnants of colonial-era murals.
And a beautiful cactus garden in the courtyard.
The hotel was able to find us accommodations for New Years Eve and then we booked another night with them for the first. Now what to do for New Year's as it was pretty late in the day to be making reservations. As luck had it, we ran into the chef from the Italian restaurant and he remembered us and promised to arrange a table for an early sitting - 2000 hours - which is early by Mexican standards on any given night.
We had another wonderful dinner and then left to walk around the square. It was filled with families and musicians and balloons. I really wanted to stay til midnight but I had been fighting this flu/ cold for a couple of days now and just could not do it. But we made it back to our room in time to call Mom at midnight her time and wish her a Feliz Ano Nuevo!
A lot of things were closed on January first but I still managed to do some damage in the shops. I did add to the ship's stores: coffee and cocoa. And I did manage to buy some gifts for someone someday and souvenir's for us. And yes David - another bag! And a few pieces of black pottery and green pottery.
Scenes from the market
Grasshoppers (chapulines) - they eat these like chips! Sorry, I just couldn't go there.
All kinds of cheese
Scenes along the street
Another Church
0930: Back on the bus and a most wonderful 8 hour bus ride - averaging 40 km. Gives you an idea as to how windy the road is. But the vistas were beautiful.
The 8 hour bus ride was beautiful though sometimes nervy. The highway was good but there were often no guard rails. And the vistas were fantastic.
When we got back to the marina we noticed Sea Swift in one of the slips. No one aboard. We figured Barry would be at the restaurant - and he was. Finally someone has caught up to us!
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