Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Fakarava in the Tuomotus - South Anchorage

Fakarava in the Tuomtus: South Anchorage
 
We stayed on the hook for the night. In the morning a mooring buoy became available so we decided to pull up anchor and move onto it. It took some maneuvering again to get the anchor up with me on the helm and David working the windless up and down (releasing and bringing up chain) and directing me but we finally came free. The water is so clear that it was easy to see where the anchor chain was laying.



We took the dinghy over to the pass. With Bob and Judy (Kilabilu) for a snorkel. I got some footage on the GoPro. The current was just starting to flood, the best time to snorkel. You sure would not want to be in the pass during the ebb as it could take you right out to the open water! But with the flood you just kind of fly through the water - no real swimming required until we were 3/4 of the way back to the boat. There were lots of fish, a few black tipped sharks and some beautiful coral. It was so much fun and the site so good for snorkeling that we decided to stay for a couple of days and do it again.



The south pass is just off the town of Tetamu - the siteof the old Capitol. There is a dive shop there and a few cabins to rent but otherwise it was mostly deserted. Exception: the old church with the coral and shell alter had been refurbished and was beautiful.

Back to the boat for a bit more polishing of stainless - an endless job on our boat! But I do love it - therapeutic and satisfying. More snorkeling and traipsing around the motus. It is pretty neat seeing the ocean waves break on the oceanside and the calm on the lagoon side.

Just had our evening entertainment. The water was calm and then it started bubbling like a pot of boiling water. I got the flashlight out and you could see hundreds of small pink fish resembling snapper jumping all over the place. Then my light caught the movement of a black tipped shark and was he ever moving! Just like jaws! I guess it was dinner time - just after the sun set. No time for swimming. But I guess that is why the Sharks do not bother the snorkels - just too much of their preferred food around.

Sitting in the cockpit looking at the starlit night. The Big Dipper is getting lower and lower in the northern sky with the bottom of the bucket almost on the horizon.  Orion is also sitting pretty low with his left foot also on the horizon. I wonder at what latitude they both disappear from site?

Sunday and the day started out cloudy with a bit of rain. Slack water was not til 1430 so we were hoping that it would clear up by then. We decided to head over to the dive shop a little early so that we could get on the internet only to find out that the Internet was down. We were lucky to get through yesterday - even managing a few Skype calls. David got to talk to his sister Susan and the grandkids in Australia. I got to talk to my sister Susan for a short while before we got cut off. It was nice to hear her voice though it always makes me miss her more. 


So we sat around watching the fish around the dock - like looking into an aquarium! Al and Patricia (Nauti Nauti) and Cliff and Mary Ann (Corola) showed up to snorkel the pass. We were the experienced of the group so ended up leading the pack. It is always nice to do some of these snorkels with someone who has done it - for the first time anyway. In this particular pass you have to be aware of the currents or you could get swept out to sea!! David and I basically snorkels back to our boat - more water flying! There seemed to be a lot more fish today, including Sharks! I stopped counting at 20.

I just found out that this is the breeding grounds for a lot of Sharks starting sometime this month. I cannot imagine what it would be like at that time. I think I would not want to be in the water at that time.

Barbequed hamburgers with east coast chow chow ( green tomato relish) and warm German potato salad for dinner.

Monday, 30-May-2016 

0811 we unleashed from the mooring ball and headed north and back to the town of Roatava where Armon will get his flight to Tahiti. We motor sailed for the first hour. Or so with just the Genoa out. Closer to noon the winds picked up and we were able to turn the motor off and sail all the way 25 nm to the north end. 

We averaged 5 knots with the sun out - another beautiful day of sailing.

It is still a novelty for me to pick up the anchor, set our course, set our sails and not touch the motor for the rest of the day! What a treat!!,!

Starting to think about dinner. With the lack of fresh vegetables it is getting a little difficult to come up with some interesting things to make for dinner. I found a third of a bag of frozen broccoli when I cleaned out the freezer, some chicken stock and tortellini so I will make my version of Italian chicken soup.

Which brings me to another bit of marine trivia.

Pease porridge hot.
Pease porridge cold.
Pease porridge in the pot nine days old.

Ever wonder where this came from?

Well captain Cook had a reputation for keeping his crew healthy and preventing scurvy. He worked with the Navy to come up with food to have on board to assist with this. They loaded the Endeavour with a portable soup consisting of mixed vegetables, liver, kidneys, heart and other internal organ meats and boiled it to a pulp. It was then hardened into slabs to be dissolved in oatmeal or a pudding of boiled peas! And this was called pease - no that is not mispelt!

We arrived just in time to pick up the mooring buoy that Belvany had just vacated. We were happy not to have to drop the anchor.

Into town to pick up a few provisions and the off to La Pailotte for an early dinner. We had a gal let with curried. Hi Ken - type of crepe made from a special brown flower that comes from England.

What a beautiful setting for a restaurant. It is run by two sisters from France, Isabelle and Florence.


Here I am enjoying some mango and passion fruit gelato after dinner and a swim.

Yes this is a slice of paradise.


Bonus - a local fisherman just came in with fresh tuna and sold us one kilo for $12. Guess what we are having for dinner tomorrow? And another 
local came by with some yellow watermelon.

Next day we picked up some more provisions and brought  in some laundry to yacht services. The tuna for dinner was excellent.

Wednesday morning and the supply ship came in. One last trip to see what fresh goodies arrived. I scored big time with tangerines, pears, grapes, lettuce, fresh ginger, basil, carrots and cabbage. Tonight we will enjoy some Thai chicken wings with a big stir fry of fresh vegetables.

Armon is on his way to the airport. David and I will leave tomorrow - time depending on the tides! And in to the next atoll.




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