Our final days at the anchorage in Rangiroa were a little hectic and frustrating. We were still without an outboard and also in need of a welder. Due to the conditions of the seas and our distance from shore, rowing to the beach was not a good option.
Thanks to the generous assistance of our fellow yachties, we were finally able to get to shore.
Yacht Services was able to arrange a weld repair on our wind vane monitor. They were also kind enough to deliver it to the shop and pick it up two days later. The supply ship was in port so we were able to load up with fresh vegetables. I never thought I would be so excited about seeing red, yellow and orange peppers! And of course, cabbage, cucumbers, potatoes, onions and garlic! Still no tomatoes.
Thursday evening we were finally able to connect to winlink on the single side band radio. News from home, though some of it was expected, was heart breaking.
On June 9 th at 0248 my mother passed away in Sault Ste. Marie in the company of my sister, Debbie and Susan. I had hoped to make it home before but Mother Nature had another agenda. So even though it was somewhat expected, it was still a shock. It was the second email that threw us. My brother Paul was not in the Sault at the time because my mother had asked him to go to Sudbury to be with our cousin Terry following complications from heart surgery. Three hours before Mom passed away, Terry also took his last breath. My cousin Terry was like a brother to us.
I found myself wanting to be at home with my family. I am going to share the ordeal of doing just that - not because I want you to feel sorry for me - but for those people thinking of doing what we are doing. Going offshore for several years means leaving family behind. There will be times when you cannot get there and you need an understanding family to appreciate that. There will be times when getting there can be expensive (though that becomes the least of your worries) and very difficult. So before you start out on your adventure you need to think about these things and prepare yourself, especially mentally, to deal with them.
Now the Internet has improved communication immensely in the last several years but it is not always accessible or available. When you are in places like French Polynesia their timeline can be very different than what we would like. They are used to long lunch hours where businesses just close their doors. They, along with the Mexicans, celebrate many religious holidays and are not open for business. You may find some of them open for a few hours on Saturday morning, but never on a Sunday. So we only have Friday to try and make arrangements to get off this motu!
Al, from Nauti Nauti, offered to bring us to town on Friday morning. We shared a ride with him to the airport as he was going in to find fuel. But we found out that there is no ticket agent at the airport. So David and I walked the rest of the way into town, only to find that there is a power outage and all businesses are closed. Nothing to be accomplished at this time so we decided to walk to the other pass and check out the rest of the atoll. The pass was stunning but a little more aggressive than the other end. If you look closely you will see a ketch on the opposite shore - obviously something went terribly wrong!
Beautiful church.
We headed back towards the other end of the island, got about half way there when a local resort driver picked. Then we hooked up with another couple on MaryAnn who gave us a ride back to the boat. But at least I was able to send off an email to say that I was trying to get home.
But with no Tahiti ticket office til Monday, there was nothing to do til then. It looked like David was going to attempt to sail the boat down to Tahiti on his own so I decided to make myself busy - Mom always said you have to try and keep things normal! So I made him some chicken cacciatore and Indian butter chicken. Then I packed my suitcase.
The next day we went ashore with Al and we were able to Skype with Susan and Paul - so at least I could talk to them. We were at a quaint French bistro looking out at the pass.
But no confirmed plans. The wake was scheduled for Thursday and the funeral for Friday. I still had time.
First thing Monday morning, Al picked us up and brought us to shore. One hour later ( we could have walked faster) the taxi picked us up and drove us to Air Tahiti Nui office. He was kind enough to wait while we purchased my ticket. My flight was scheduled for 1215. But I could not get a connecting flight to Canada as this office does not process International tickets. So I left David not really knowing what to expect in Papeete. But I figured Mom was up there pulling whatever strings she could to make sure that I got home.
We landed in Papeete and I proceeded to the Tahiti Nui ticket counter only to find out that there isn't one. I would have to go downtown. The women at Hawaiin Air said that would be a problem as the office was closed! It was Saturday afternoon. Any ideas? She suggested I try booking on line. So I paid $10 for an hour of Internet and found a flight to the Sault via LA and Toronto leaving at 2345. I'm booked and only have 12 hours to wait. Got some emails off, went for a walk, had something to eat, drank some coffee and then did some retail therapy. Just following more of Mom's advice!
I left the boat at 0800 on Monday morning and arrived in the Sault at 0938 Wednesday to be met by Susan, Paul and a roll of paper towel!
The following week was a whirlwind of emotion and events. Cousins came from out of town. Family, relatives and friends were together. Stories were shared. We laughed and we cried but most important, we were together. Two wonderful people have made their final journey. They will be loved forever along with their memories.
In the meantime, back in Rangiroa, David is trying to get the boat ready to single hand it the 200 nm to Papeete, Tahiti. He got the wind vane and auto pilot working so it would not be necessary to hand steer all the way. As he was putting new tell tails on the main he noticed another rip in the same place that was repaired in Puerto Vallarta. David used the sail tape to repair.
15-Jun-2016: after some difficulty, David recovered the anchor and departed for the pass.
0805: entered the pass with about an 2 knot outflow. Motors ailing at 5.5 knots in light easterlies.
1130: rounded the NW corner of Rangiroa with Marilyn 1 mile ahead. Motor is off and under full sail.
Good sailing. Close hauled all night with 2/3 of a moon until 0230. Two ships passed in the night. Sailed all day in 15 knots SSE. It changed to more easterly by morning.
1500 16-Jun-2016 Started the engine to outrun a squall. Sighted the mountains of Tahiti 50 miles away. Started to reduce sail to slow down as it did not look like he would make the pass before night fall.
It was an uncomfortable night but finally at 0940 anchor was set. Cold and wet and ready for bed.
Great reading until I got to the picture of Mom and Terry. Kleenex?
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