Bora Bora to Suworrow

Bora Bora to Suwarrow, Northern Cook Islands

Tuesday, 26-Jul-2016

Up early to perform the last few tasks before we get underway. I got the ribs cooking in the pressure cooker - added an open jar of Chow Chow that I found at the back of the fridge along with the end bottles of various things. One never knows what the finished product will end up being. Added an onion and a sliced orange  and a cup of raw rice and canned chestnuts.

Waffles and papaya/pineapple yoghurt on the side for breakfast. Galley is cleaned up, final deck wash, securing of dinghy on deck, jack lines ( safety lines) secured and showers.

Then we sat down to enjoy an instant Frappacino - not bad- and a slice of home made banana bread. We had a little more discussion about our destination  and still decided that it was too soon to make a commitment.

1140: We released the line from the mooring buoy and immediately put up the main with a single reef. The final lines were secured on the dinghy - cannot be done til the anchor or dock lines have been brought on board.

1212: Our position is 16* 31' S 151* 40' W. We are coming through the pass and Bora Bora is behind us.

 Speed: 5.9 knots on an outgoing tide

Winds: SE 6-8 knots

Seas: calm in the pass

Course: 295*

What can I say! Bora Bora was wonderful. I really was expecting something a lot more commercialized and am happy to report that it is not. The resorts are keeping in the flavor of the Polynesian ambiance, with thatched roofed cottages on docks that spread over the water. 

Now we never did go into any of the resorts but the grounds did look natural - no 40 story hotels. There definitely were a lot of pearl shops and many restaurants but most were low key. One big hit is the trucks - like the Canadian chip wagons but with a much varied menu and reasonable prices. And lots of places to anchor away from the villages with crystal clear water, sand bottom and reefs for snorkeling. 

French Polynesia on the whole? My only regret is that we did not make arrangements before we left Canada to have our visitor's visa extended from 3 months to 6 months. And unfortunately you have to do this from your home country. We definitely experienced the flavor of FP with basically a month in the Marquesas, a month in the Tuomotos and a month in the Societies (Tahiti) but we could have easily spent more time here. Who knows - maybe we will return one day and just bare boat charter.

1224: The Genoa is set at 90% and the Monitor Wind Vane is set.

1240: The motor is off. Speed is 4 knots and slowly increased through the day.

Course 280* T

This would be the last time we touch the helm or the sheets til nightfall when we reefed down for the night passage. This means furling in the Genoa to about 40% with the one reef in the main.

The night stayed steady and I was able to let David sleep til midnight. He did get a position report into the mmsn Pacific Seafarers net so family and friends could follow our progress.

Midnight Position: 16* 21' S 152* 46' W

Speed 6.2 knots

Winds SE at 15 knots

Starry Night

Though my soul may set in darkness

It will rise in perfect light.

I have loved the stars too fondly

To be fearful of the night.

Sarah Williams "the Old Astronomer to his Pupil"

Made the decision to go to the Northern Cook Islands and the atoll of Suwarrow. Destination is just under 700 nm. Think of sailing from Sault Ste. Marie to Thunder Bay!

Our first 24 hours out were pretty good. Hardest thing is trying to get a sleep pattern going. The lee cloth was set up on the port side settee to make sleeping more comfortable - this helped a bit. The seas were a bit rolly but the winds were steady. We had a few very short rain sprinkles but no squalls so we were not complaining. 

Wednesday, 27-Jul-2016 

Noon Position: 16* 11' S 153* 47.5' W

SOG 5.0 knots

Seas: 2 foot chop

Swell: 5 feet at 10 seconds

Distance travelled in 24 hours: 119 nam

Another good day of sailing. We had furled in the Genoa during the night and put in another reef on the main. As I have mentioned before

we try to sail conservatively at night so we are prepared for any unexpected squalls. But as the day progressed so did the winds so we never did increase our sail coverage. We managed 6-7 knots with a double reefed main for the rest of the crossing!

Confidence was basically sailing herself so I decided to continue working on a project that I had started a couple of years ago. I have some beautiful Australian wool on board and had already completed the sleeves and 2/3 of the back of a sweater. Unfortunately, or fortunately - which ever way you look at it - I was carrying a few extra pounds when I started it. So the sweater was going to be extra large. I held up the back piece and could wrap it around 2/3 of my body - maybe just a tad too big. The sleeves are okay but I had to take apart the entire back and start all over! Guess I'll try for a medium-large! Weather in New Zealand is a lot like Victoria so maybe I will have it done by the time we get there.

We had to shorten our watches as the sun went down and night descended. I was reaching my comfort zone as she settled into 7.5-8 knots running with the wind behind us! The skies did look a bit threatening for a while but nothing materialized and by midnight the stars were out in full glory.

Conditions at 0150

Seas: 6 feet

Speed: 5-7 knots

Course: 275*

Winds: SE 10-15 knots

Moon is up at 30% dimming the brilliance of the stars but providing a soft glow to the night.

The rolling is not as evident in the cockpit but it is playing havoc down below. We have things rattling and banging around that we never heard before. We are constantly trying to stuff shirts and towels and pillows into cupboards and drawers trying to minimize the noise. I climb back into the bunk and then I hear click, click, click! It is enough to drive you crazy! It is almost manageable and I am just about to fall asleep when we take another wave literally slapping us on the starboard side of the boat and I am awake again! I may have to revert to taking a Gravol - no upset stomach but it does make you a bit drowsy.

Thursday, 28-Jul-2016

Noon Position: 15* 31.6' S 155* 59.2' W

SOG: 6.2 knots with double reefed main

Mostly cloudy

Seas: 6 feet

Winds: Easterly 15-20 knots

Course: 280*

Total Distance Travelled in 24 hours: 132.8 nm 

Managed another decent night averaging a little over 5 knots. Due diligence is required on the helm to assist the Monitor in maintaining our course. I did an accidental gibe (sail came over to the other side) when I went down below to go to the bathroom. But the preventer stopped the boom from coming across - it puts a bit of pressure on the sail and can increase your chances of a tear so you really do not want to be doing that. But I did manage to bring her back without disturbing the Captain. Our course range for steering the boat is very short with the wind coming behind us.

I managed to cover the watch to 1100 and then David took it to 0500. Then I got to see the sun rise.

 I was hoping to let David sleep for as long as he needed but the guy has a built in alarm and was up at 0700 for the radio net. We heard from Al on Nauti Nauti who is trying to stay ahead of the low that is supposed to hit by Sunday. We are too far away from Tongo to beat this low so we made the decision to go to Surorrow.  Raratongo in the Southern Cook Islands was also an option but the anchorage would be too exposed for the weather that was coming in. So off to the Northern Cook Islands it is!

Friday 29-Jul-2016

Noon Position:

14* 56.8' S 159* 46' W

Mostly sunny

Seas: 3 feet. Swells: 10-12 feet!

Winds: NE 10-15 knots

Course: 300*. We had to jibe to get ourselves back on course.

Total distance Travelled in 24 hours: 110 nm

Still have the rolling seas!

David got on to the Pacific Marine net so they could post our position and everyone could see the little boat move! All is well on board. 

Not much change in conditions for the next 24 hours. Seas are making it a bit of a challenge to prepare anything down below. I sure am glad that I had some prepared meals in the freezer. The penne pasta with Italian sausage hit the spot. And I always have plenty of crackers and cheese!

Saturday 30-Jul-2016 

Noon Position:

Sunday 31-Jul-2016

Noon Position:  13* 57' S 161* 17'W

Speed: 6.5 knots Course 272* T

Seas: 2 feet with a 9 meter swell! ( that is why it is a bit uncomfortable)

Winds: E 22 knots

Distance Travelled in 24 hours: 105 knots

Distance to Go: 114 knots 

Conditions still remained constant throughout the day and night. Once the sunset it did look like we were going to get hit with a serious squall. I was at the helm so I got myself prepared - my orange Helly Hansen rain jacket from Paul to keep me dry, my Admiral hat from Paul to keep the rain off my glasses Gortex pants courtesy of BC Ferries and my sailing gloves to give me extra grip on the wheel.

Well we got a few gusts - maybe 25 knots - but no rain. The system was moving us at a faster rate than we were moving. In no time the stars were out and Confidence and I sailed through a starlit night averaging 5 knots.

0948: we sighted 7 Island, one of the motus on the Atoll of Suworrow. Coffee is made. BA scramble is on the menu once we have the anchor set.

1100: entering the pass and getting a close up view of a true island paradise!

Noon: Anchor is set and a call has been put into the ranger station on Suworrow. Within 20 minutes Harry and his son Pae were on board getting us cleared. Five documents later, $50 dollar park fee and a $20 administration fee and we were free to go ashore.

But first we have to clean up the boat and have that breakfast!