Surorrow

Suwarrow, Northern Cook Islands

The Suwarrow Atoll can be located at 13* 14.9' S. 163* 6.6' W

This Atoll was established as a national park in 1978 - an island paradise 500 nm away from anywhere. This island is an important breeding habitat for the Cook Islands and the Pacific Region. It used to be called Suvarov after a Russian ship that discovered it.

The main objective of the park is to maintain these breeding grounds and the Atoll in general in its most natural state. In 2013 a rat eradication program went into effect and preliminary observations in 2014 show success. The project will continue until 2017 and for this reason some restrictions s have been made for visiting boats.

For 6 months of the year - June 1st to Nov 1 st - Suworrow has two park rangers in residence: Harry and his son Pae. Otherwise the island is uninhabited and no unauthorized landing is allowed. The park board has built them a rustic house on stilts with a few outbuildings. They are dropped off in June with provisions for the six months and will not be picked up in til November.

Their main responsibilities include the completion of the government documents for our entry into the Cook Islands. Even though this is not an official port of entry it suffices their requirements for visitation to this Atoll. We are allowed to stay for a maximum of two weeks.  The park rangers are also responsible for ensuring that all visitors follow the rules. There is no dumping or burning of garbage anywhere on the Atoll. This reduces the invasion of pests. Until the rat eradication project is over,  Visitors are not allowed to go ashore on any of the motus except Anchor Island (where the Rangers live). There is no dumping of organic waste into the lagoon as this attracts the unfriendly sharks who endanger the local fish population. No fishing is allowed inside the lagoon but you are allowed to troll at the entrance.

It is not difficult to maintain these rules in order to appreciate this pristine environment that we are given the privilege to visit!

There are many variables that determine whether our experiences in a particular area were positive. Weather, water, anchorage, provisioning, fellow boaters, inhabitants and modern conveniences (wifi, laundry). One week on the Atoll of Suwarrow has received our highest ratings to date! The fact that we had no wifi or means of provisioning only added to the experience of really being on an uninhabited island paradise.

Harry and Pae were excellent hosts and through their vigilance and the governance the park board have managed to maintain this atoll in its most natural state. They joined us for a beach potluck to celebrate my 61 st. 

And they are providing stories of the area and traditional Maori  songs on their guitars. Harry's guitar was actually given to him by one of the band members from Motley Crew. To show just how remote these guys are - a few of the strings had broken so Harry restrung the guitar with fishing line! And the sound was fantastic. They come from a family of musicians so believe me there was nothing amateurish about their music!!! Our friend Dave would have absolutely loved it.

The potluck was great! Fresh tuna courtesy of Red Thread done in a Moroncan spice. Skewers of fresh Wahoo courtesy of Sereta. Neil and Richard had also been out the night before spearing lobster so Jude made up a lobster, butter and garlic spread that she put on balimis. I made Thai chicken because my  fisherman had not been successful up to this point. Carol made lentils. Fresh carrots, pickled green beans and fried rice made up the rest. I made Giradelli  chocolate brownies. Scott made a spice cake. And to top it off - Jessie made me a birthday cake complete with decorations. 

I was adorned with a tiara and sash. A finishing touch - Richard opened up a bottle of Crown Royal - a gift he had received from a fellow Canadian and I am embarrassed to say that we all polished off before the night was done. But that was 11 people so really it was not that bad!  What a glorious birthday celebration! David topped it off with a pinky ring, adorned with Marqesian etching and a black pearl. I have celebrated some pretty spectacular birthdays ( my 50 th being me of them) but this me was right up there!

Our week was spent walking around Anchor Island,

 snorkeling Perfect Reef ( aptly named) and other reefs in the lagoon, swimming to and from shore and sharing stories and time with our neighbors - a group of people who were instrumental in giving this stop our highest rating. Richard, Jude and Katya on Serita from Australia. Gary and Marita on Miss Catana from Tasmania, Brian and Carol on Prince Diamond from Toronto, Jessie and Neil on Red Thread from Seattle and Scott on Morning Light from San Diego. And of course, Harry and Pae.

David went fishing with Gary a couple of times and we had fresh fish for dinner! You can tell by the smile on David's face that they were successful.

L

Rainbow runner was one of the nicest fish we had ever eaten 

- Harry says it is his favorite. No pictures as another rule of the park - you must clean the fish outside of the lagoon so as not to attract the grey sharks! As it was, they had a trevali on the line but it went under a piece of coral and within seconds 6 sharks were there to claim dinner before the guys had a hope f bribing it in. And just the smell of blood around the dinghy was enough to attract 6 more black tipped sharks around our boat - but at least these are the friendly sharks.

There are hermit crabs in abundance on the islands. This one was missing his home. 

And gigantic coconut crabs! Pae found this one and brought him to the party - but only for a photo op. You can eat them but Harry and Pae kind of treat them as pets! 

I have been to some pretty spectacular places during this adventure but none match the peace and tranquility of Suwarrow. It is no wonder that when Tom Neale came here in the early seventies that he made it is home. Maybe you have read his book "an Island to Oneself." I have not  read it but plan on getting a copy as soon as I can.

David went to shore on Saturday and completed our clearance papers. We were going to leave on Sunday but then Sunday came and we put it off til Monday. This is a very difficult hot place to leave!

Harry and David

David and Pae

This was just about one of the best weeks in my life!